I'd just like to make it quite clear that the TGV was brilliant, highly recommended, the seats were great, the view was gorgeous, and altogether considerably better than Luton airport and Easyjet.
Here's the downside. Ben had his beloved Opinel knife confiscated at St Pancras, I left my favourite jumper on the Eurostar, and getting on to the TGV at Lille I hurt my back lifting my vastly heavy bag. Heavy doses of ibuprofen, French muscle relaxant and Ricard are gradually improving things though.
The worst bit was running through Avignon TGV station with 10 minutes to get the Arles bus (the TGV was running a bit late). I didn't realise until we arrived that none of my texts had reached Sam due to a problem with the French Vodafone network, but fortunately he called while we were on the bus, met us at Arles station and we got a taxi to the gorgeous mooring across the river.
We spent a lovely day in Arles with me limping very slowly around the cathedral, the Arenes (Roman arena) and the Roman baths. In the evening we met Harry and Liz, and their dog Zigmundo - Harry and Liz have been taking great care of Sam during his sojourn in Port St Louis. We saw the Van Gogh bridge (below) and had a slightly dodgy meal.
This morning we couldn't leave Arles until we'd paid our canal toll, so it's been 40km in full heat to Avignon where we are now, moored almost under the Rochers des Dom but sadly even closer to the ring road. It is 34deg C down below, so please excuse me if I still sound a bit heated.
The Rhone was quite amazingly empty; until we reached Avignon we probably saw no more than 15 peniches (barges), two hotel boats, half a dozen pleasure boats of various shapes and sizes, a dredger and one very large lock. I expected it to be more like the Rhine, but certainly not yet. Progress was a bit slow in the lower reaches where at some points we were making only about 2.6 knots against the current - above the first big lock progress was a lot better. We are hoping to reach Viviers tomorrow, a longer run but hopefully a much earlier start.
Kalessin of Orwell is a 33ft Westerly Storm. In 2006-8 we sailed her down to Portugal, into the Med, and home through the French canals. In 2011 we explored Baltic Germany and Denmark. After Sam's stroke we cruised gently on the East Coast, the Netherlands and Brittany, and in 2021 sailed to Cornwall and back. In 2024, following Sam's death, Camilla plans a memorial round-Britain cruise
Under way
Almost off
Sam has been in France since last week, and has managed to refit the heat exchanger, sort out a few other problems with leaks, and get Kalessin into the water. She has moved from the hard standing at Navy Service, just outside Port St Louis, into PSL itself. We're communicating mainly via text but it sounds like he's having a good time, after a few days of Mistral (strong northerlies) last week. Lots of mosquitoes though.
By the time Ben and I arrive on Tuesday, we hope he'll have moved her upriver to Arles, which saves us 25M of stress on our first day and means an easier transfer from the train. The Rhône will be a bit of a trial as we plug against the current, and there are very few places to stop below Lyon. However the ever helpful Grehan is a couple of weeks ahead of us and says water conditions are good - not too much flow in the Rhône, enough water in the canals. Fingers crossed.
By the time Ben and I arrive on Tuesday, we hope he'll have moved her upriver to Arles, which saves us 25M of stress on our first day and means an easier transfer from the train. The Rhône will be a bit of a trial as we plug against the current, and there are very few places to stop below Lyon. However the ever helpful Grehan is a couple of weeks ahead of us and says water conditions are good - not too much flow in the Rhône, enough water in the canals. Fingers crossed.
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Merry Christmas from just me
Video of photos made for Sam's funeral Dear friends and family As I hope you all know, this year has been a difficult one for me. On ...
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