Tarbert to Rothesay

The Buttock of Bute

We could have gone from Tarbert to our summer base at Rhu Marina in one go, but as we had two days of moderate winds, we thought we might break the journey on the Isle of Bute, at Rothesay. Bute is perhaps best known for having two narrow and beautiful channels to either side of it, known as the Kyles of Bute. So we were disappointed as we set off from Tarbert that once again, it was raining, and first one and then the other side of Loch Fyne disappeared into the murk. Fortunately, after a while, the rain eased off, and they reappeared. 

Also, one advantage of the rain was that it included quite a lot of wind for free. So we were able to sail all the way down Loch Fyne, and part of the way up to Tignabruich. We motored through the extremely narrow gap between the Burnt Isles, which notoriously can have very strong tides, but either my tidal calculations were spot on, or we were just lucky, but there was very little current running. And then we were able to sail all the way down the east Kyle to Rothesay, and see most of the really gorgeous scenery in between the raindrops. These may be Lowlands, but by Suffolk standards, they are still Highlands.

There was some confusion at Rothesay Harbour. As per the instructions in the pilot book, we called ahead on channel 12 and were given permission to enter, and told to moor wherever was convenient. In fact almost every space in the inner harbour was empty, so we had plenty of choice. But when I went to the marina office to pay I was told that I should have phoned on their mobile number, in order to be allocated a berth. I really can’t imagine that it would’ve made much difference.

Bute is a funny place. It was a hugely popular resort until the mid 20th century. It still has many hotels and guesthouses, but it’s hard to imagine what the residents do all day. I had a lovely woodland walk, returning along the seafront, and didn’t pass a single café, coffee shop, or even ice cream stand until I got back into the town centre. This is Friday evening during the Scottish school holidays, so not exactly off-season. However, there were an awful lot of tractors around, and it transpired that they were gathering for a weekend event on on the island. It was very strange to see them coming off the ferry!

We did find Bute Yard, an amazing spot for an evening drink or even a meal. The town has so much potential, and so many buildings which could be lovely, but parts of it are terribly run down, with collapsing dilapidated hotels right in the centre of town. 

Very grand hotel with tractor

Very sad hotel with no tractors

Lots of tractors

Famous Victorian toilets

Bute Yard