KALESSIN OF ORWELL IS A 33FT WESTERLY STORM. IN 2006-8 WE SAILED HER DOWN TO PORTUGAL, INTO THE MED, AND HOME THROUGH THE FRENCH CANALS. IN 2011 WE EXPLORED BALTIC GERMANY AND DENMARK. AFTER SAM'S STROKE WE CRUISED GENTLY ON THE EAST COAST, THE NETHERLANDS AND BRITTANY, AND IN 2021 SAILED TO CORNWALL AND BACK. IN 2024, FOLLOWING SAM'S DEATH, CAMILLA IS UNDERTAKING A MEMORIAL ROUND-BRITAIN CRUISE

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This morning, as promised, it rained pretty hard, and we spent the morning washing our smalls and relaxing. But by noon the rain had gone, and we were able to set off for today's cultural destination, the Ny Glyptotek, also known as the Carlsberg sculpture museum.

We spent the afternoon admiring Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan, Roman, Danish (oh dear) and French sculpture, and some nice French Impressionist and Post-impressionist paintings. Ben liked the Greek sculptures best, while Camilla was rather taken with the bronze casts of Degas' quick sketchy sculptures (originally just made in wax and cast by Degas' family after his death). There are also various Rodins including versions of the Kiss, the Thinker, and as a reminder of 2008 for us, the Burghers of Calais.

We had a couple of hours to kill before our meal, so strolled across to the canalside neighbourhood of Christianshavn, and then in a burst of bravery we popped into the anarchist hippie neighbourhood of Christiania to admire the graffiti and inhale the fumes (in fact much less than you smell on an average Amsterdam street).

As a farewell to Ben we had a meal at Peder Oxe, famous for its terrific burgers (for Sam and Ben) and help-yourself salad (for Camilla). For pudding we went for rødkål med fløde, a kind of fruit soup, which is a Danish pronunciation challenge equivalent to Scheveningen in Dutch.

Tomorrow we have to spend the morning getting Ben packed and ready to go on his afternoon flight. He can't wait to get away, but we will miss him terribly. The wind still looks strong for Tuesday and Wednesday, but Thursday is now looking a little bit more promising for departure.

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