Bangor to Ardglass

Bangor looked like another place where we might be stuck for a while, but on Saturday 17th there was a quiet period and fair tides to get us to the little port of Ardglass, with the prospect of carrying on the next day. Ardglass is actually quite unusual on the east coast of Ireland in having access in most weathers and tides, and a sheltered marina. So we slipped our lines at Bangor Marina in the very early hours of the morning and motored to the fuel berth, which is, hooray, a card-operated self-service one dispensing white diesel (because we are now in Ireland where coloured/duty-free diesel is not allowed for leisure vessels).

The route south took us inside Copeland Island where the tide runs very strongly, fortunately in the right direction, and at one point we were doing 8kt! It was just as well we were able to gain time early on, because once we passed Portavogie and turned slightly inwards, we were motorsailing straight into the south-westerly wind. 

I had really wanted to visit Strangford Lough, but the strong tides in the long entrance channel mean that there's only about an hour in the day when you can leave safely (night passage not recommended), which would have been very restrictive. So we plugged on past the lough entrance getting slower and slower, while I tried to work out what would be the latest point we could give up on Ardglass and turn back into the lough (once the tide turns you have no chance of getting up the channel). Just beyond the entrance, at Killard Point, we dropped the mainsail, which was banging about being annoying and not helping us as we bumped uncomfortably on. 

But eventually Ardglass came in sight and we turned in, phew, with shelter from the waves for the last short distance so Erika could rig warps and fenders. The marina is run by volunteers and I had totally failed to get hold of anyone via mobile phone number, landline or VHF, but it was still early – just before noon – and there was plenty of space for us on the outermost pontoon. No-one around in the office but the loos and showers were open and a helpful soul gave us the code for the gate to get back in.

Ardglass is a small town which reminded me of Whitehills, in an Irish sort of way of course. We wandered about looking for pubs or restaurants and eventually came to the golf club - it would never have occurred to me to go in there but Erika confidently strode in and in fact it seems they are open to all. We had a drink, and then a late lunch, in the upstairs lounge with lovely views out to sea. There was an amazingly international feel to the place with 70 golfers from Tallahassee playing the course and also having late lunches, all very delightful.

On our return to the marina we managed to find someone to pay – an elderly gentleman who has lost his sight through macular degeneration, so you have to enter the amount into the card machine for him. After that, every time we passed through the marina building either he or one of the two cats could be seen dozing on the comfy sofa.

34 Miles run.

Ireland's oldest golf clubhouse proved very welcoming

I attempted a run the next morning but footpaths don't really seem to be a thing in Ardglass. There were some lovely gardens though.