Tyneside

I may have mentioned that I was at university in Newcastle almost 50 years ago. I loved the city and its people but I haven't been back often in the intervening years. So it was great to spend a few days on Tyneside. My overwhelming impression was how great it was, The industrial grime and post-industrial decline have gone and everywhere I went, even North Shields, looked better kept, more attractive and far more prosperous than I remembered.

Having caught up with some CA work on Sunday morning we took the Metro into the city on Sunday afternoon. The area around Monument station was blocked off for much of the time I was living in Newcastle  - now of course it's been a busy hub station for many years. Coming up the steps from the station I just couldn't help grinning all the time, it was so great to see it all again. Our route took us down the lovely and gracious Grey Street, now full of shops and restaurants at street level, and on down to the riverside which now fulfils the promise it always held, with a Sunday market in full swing on the Newcastle side. Across the new (to me) footbridge was the Baltic Centre, home to an eclectic mixture of exhibitions, none of which I would have chosen to see, but in my cheery state I thoroughly enjoyed them all - especially the work of Franki Raffles, who was a radical feminist photographer.

When I was at the university I wrote an article for the student newspaper about All Saints Church, islanded between motorways in the city centre, which was deconsecrated in 1961 and abandoned for many years, despite being Grade 1 listed. We walked past it on the way back to the station; thanks to Erika’s persistence we managed to get inside and discovered it has been taken over by Presbyterians who have done a wonderful job of restoring it. Another joy.

Baltic and its kittiwakes

Work of Frranki Raffles 

All Saints Church

The beautifully restored interior

On Monday Erika reminded me I was supposed to be going for a run, so I headed off down to Tynemouth, along the river and past the Fish Quay which is full of so-so restaurants and up to the Priory to admire the view, then up the High Street and through the station, which is just amazing, vast acreages of glass all in place and cared for and looking stunning with blue sky above. It took me two goes to find the secret path from the station which the Komoot app had thoughtfully identified for me - the first time I was above it – but it was worth doubling back as it took me into the lush Northumberland Park where I had a coffee and fruit scone, then on down the main North Shields high street and back to the boat. Not properly a run, as so much of it was strolling and gawping, but thoroughly enjoyable. I was really lucky that I missed most of that day's rain while Erika, who walked into the city and back along the Tyne, got abslutely drenched.

In Tynemouth Station I identified an Italian restaurant which looked like a good option for a meal out and in fact it proved great - in a lofty former station building, nice waiters, good pizzas and pretty full of customers, so I was glad I'd booked, although we had to eat at 6:30 because it was closing at 8.

Tynemouth Priory – I was too mean to pay to go in

The stunningly gorgeous Metro station

Lush Northumberland Park